Use the straight side of the Corner to Corner Curve Strip Ruler to cut 3 1/2″ strips. Then simply, Turn-a-Round the ruler to cut the convex and concave pieces from these 3 1/2″ strips. Sew these units together to create 3″ finished Corner to Corner Curved blocks. The holes in the ruler enable the rotary cutter to cut the triangles without damaging the ruler. Use of a 28 mm rotary cutter is recommended. Creative Grids exclusive embedded gripper dots hold the fabric while cutting when pressure is applied.
Why Use the Corner to Corner Curve Strip Ruler from Creative Grids?
- Embedded Gripper Dots – Non Slip ruler for precise cuts
- Easy to read black & white markings – Always know where and how far to cut
- Turn-a-Round feature on the rectangular and square rulers – a revolutionary design that assists quilters with accurately cutting fabric with seam allowances included
- Accuracy, Clarity and Non-Slip. No other ruler combines all three features
Many designs can be made using a square that is divided from corner to corner with a curved line. The Corner to Corner Curve Strip ruler is used to cut the two pieces needed for a 3″ finished square. (A 1/4″ seam allowance on all sides is included in each cut shape). Use a small 28mm rotary cutter to make cutting the curves easier.
About the Corner to Corner Curve Strip Ruler
The top section of the ruler has the two curved shapes needed to make the corner-to-corner curve square block. The bottom section is a ruler. It has just one line marked on it which is 3 1/2″ from the bottom edge of the ruler. Use this line to cut the starting strips from which both the curved shapes are cut. The inch ruler that is marked along the bottom edge and up one side is for general measuring and is especially useful for estimating how long a strip is needed from each fabric to cut the various curved shapes in the design.
Cutting the Strips
1. All shapes are cut from 3 1/2″ wide strips. Cut several layers at once to make these strips more quickly. Straighten one end of the layered fabrics, using the long straight side of the ruler (Fig.1).
2. Turn the straightened end of the fabric to the left side (left handers should place the straightened end of fabric to the right side and cut from that end). Line up the marked 3 1/2″ line on the ruler with the cut edge of the fabric (Fig.2). Cut along the right-hand edge of the ruler to cut the 3 1/2″ wide strip.
Cutting the Curved Shapes A and B
3. To make the cutting of the curved edges more comfortable, place the 3 1/2″ wide strip on the cutting board at a diagonal angle as in Fig.3a. Several layers of strips may be cut at once if desired. (Lefthanders should position the strips in Fig.3b. and work from the left end of the strips when cutting the curved shapes.)
4. To cut the larger quarter-circle shape A, place the ruler with the larger shapes A at the right-hand end of the fabric strip (Fig.4a). The bottom edge of the fabric strip should line up with the 3 1/2″ marked line on the ruler, and the top of the fabric strip with the top edge of the curved shapes on the ruler. Cut along the right hand edge of the first large curved shape A on the ruler (Fig. 4b).
Now cut along the curved edge of the first shape A on the ruler, cutting through the fabric strip and into the circular hole at the bottom (Fig.4c). The scrap of fabric at the top is waste – the cut shape A under the ruler is the piece you need. Do NOT move the ruler.
5. Repeat this action by first cutting up from the circular hole into the fabric strip along the right-hand edge of the second shape A on the ruler (Fig.5a) and then cutting along the curved edge at the end of the ruler (Fig.5b). Lift the ruler and remove the two cut shapes A. If more of these are needed for the design, replace the ruler on the remaining 3 1/2″ strip and repeat step 4 until you have cut the required number of this shape.
6. To cut the smaller curved shape B, position a cut 3 1/2″ wide strip, or several layers if preferred, as in Step 3. Place the ruler on the right-hand end at the fabric strip. The bottom edge of the fabric strip should line up with the 3 1/2″ marked line on the ruler, and the top of the fabric strip with the top edge of the curved shapes on the ruler. Cut along the right-hand end of the ruler (Fig.6a).
Now cut along the concave curved edge of shape B. This is not as easy to cut as the convex curve on shape A, so take it slowly and turn your wrist and hand so that the small cutting blade matches the curved edge of the ruler as you go. Cut just beyond the end of the curved edge – no more than 1/4″ beyond it (Fig.6b).
Lift the cutter and cut down from the end of the curved edge towards the circular hole in the ruler (Fig.6c). The cut shape B under the ruler is the piece that you need. Do not move the ruler at this stage.
Repeat this action by first cutting up from that same circular hole into the fabric strip along the right-hand edge of the second shape B on the ruler, and then cutting along the concave curved edge and the final straight cut as before to cut a second shape B. Cut along the next vertical edge on the ruler from the circular hole as in Fig. 6d.
7. Lift the ruler and remove the 2 cut shapes B. Remove the remaining uncut strip of fabric. There are 2 shapes of fabric left behind (Fig.7a). Turn them around 180°. Place the ruler back onto one of the pieces, matching the top edge of the fabric with the top edge of the ruler and the bottom of the fabric with the marked 3 1/2″ line on the ruler (Fig.7b). Cut another shape B from this, following step 6 as before. Repeat step 6 with the other piece of fabric to make a total of 4 cut shapes B. If more of shape B are needed for the design from this fabric, replace the ruler on the remaining 3 1/2″ strip and repeat step 6-7 until you have cut the required number of this shape.
Stitching the Curves by Machine
1. Fold shape A in half along the curved edge and crease it to mark the center. Repeat this with shape B. Place shape B onto shape A, matching the center creases and edges — right sides together. Pin as in (Fig.1a). Swing each corner of shape B around and pin in position at the corners of shape A, lining up the edges of both fabrics (Fig.1b). No more pins are needed.
2. Stitch an exact 1/4″ seam from pinned corner to pinned corner. The trick is to use the point of a seam ripper to pull the two edges into alignment no more than 1/2″ ahead of the needle as you stitch. The curved edge of the top fabric will stretch easily to fit the bottom curve. It could take a couple of tries to get a perfect result, but once you are used to stretching the top fabric a little at a time, sewing the curves is accurate and easy.
Press the finished square from the right side with the seams pressed towards shape B (Fig.2).
Stitching the Curves by Hand
1. If necessary, mark the stitching line on the wrong side of the curved edge on shape B – you may prefer to judge this by eye as you stitch. The stitching line is shown on the Corner to Corner Curves Ruler as the inner dotted line on each shape.
2. Match the centers and corners and fix with three pins as described for machine stitching. Add more pins if you wish, slightly stretching the top fabric shape B over your hand to ease it to fit against shape A. Match the edges of the fabric as you pin.
3. Stitch from one corner with a 1/4″ seam allowance, following the drawn stitching line on the top shape B. Stitch with small running stitches and the occasional backstitch to strengthen the seam.
4. Press the completed square from the front with the seams pressed towards the smaller shape B.
Finishing the Block
1. Make all the pieced squares for the chosen design and pin them on a display surface to check the effectiveness of the arrangement.
2. Stitch the squares together, one row at a time with a 1/4″ seam allowance throughout.
Creative Grids® USA, Inc.
400 W. Dussel Dr. Ste B
Maumee, OH 43537