Use the straight side of this strip ruler to cut 2 1/2″ and 3 1/2″ strips. Turn-a-Round the ruler to cut the convex shapes from the 2 1/2″ strip. Cut the concave pieces from the 3 1/2″ strips. Sew these units together to create 3″ finished Drunkard’s Path units. The holes in the ruler enable the rotary cutter to cut the triangles without damaging the ruler. Use a 28 mm rotary cutter. Our exclusive embedded gripper dots hold the fabric while cutting when pressure is applied.
Why Use the Drunkard’s Path Strip Ruler from Creative Grids?
- Embedded Gripper Dots – Non Slip ruler for precise cuts
- Easy to read black & white markings – Always know where and how far to cut
- Turn-a-Round feature on the rectangular and square rulers – a revolutionary design that assists quilters with accurately cutting fabric with seam allowances included
- Accuracy, Clarity and Non-Slip. No other ruler combines all three features
The Drunkard’s Path block can be used to make many blocks and larger designs. The Drunkard’s Path Strip ruler is used to cut the two pieces needed for a 3″ finished square. (A 1/4″ seam allowance on all sides is included in each cut shape.) Use a small 28mm rotary cutter to make cutting the curves easier.
About the Ruler
The top section of the ruler has the two curved shapes needed to make the Drunkard’s Path block. The larger shape in the block is cut from a 3 1/2″ wide strip. The smaller, quarter-circle is cut from a 2 1/2″ wide strip. The bottom section of the ruler is used to cut the strips. It has just two lines marked on it – one which is 3 1/2″ from the bottom edge of the ruler and a second line that is 2 1/2″ from the bottom edge. Both are clearly labeled to avoid confusion. The inch ruler that is marked along the bottom edge and up one side is for general measuring and is especially useful when estimating how long a strip to cut from each fabric to cut the various curved shapes in the design.
Cutting the Strips
1. The larger shape B is cut from 3 1/2″ wide strips. The smaller shape A is cut from 2 1/2″ wide strips. Cut several layers at once. Straighten one end of the layered fabrics, using the long straight side of the ruler (Fig.1).
2. Turn the straightened end of the fabric to the left side. (Lefthanders should place the straightened end of fabric to the right side and cut from that end). To cut the wider strips for shape B, move the long straight end of the ruler across the fabric until the cut edge of the fabric lines up with the 3 1/2″ line on the ruler(Fig.2). Cut along the right-hand edge of the ruler to cut the 3 1/2″ wide strip.
3. To cut the narrower strips for shape “A”, move the ruler across the fabric in the same way until the cut edge of the fabric line sup with the marked 2 1/2″ line on the ruler (Fig.3). Cut along the right-hand edge of the ruler to cut the 2 1/2″ wide strip.
Cutting the Curved Shapes A and B
4. To make the cutting of the curved edges more comfortable, place the strips to be cut on the cutting mat at a diagonal angle as in Fig.4a. Several layers of strips may be cut at once if desired.(Left-handers should position the strips as shown in Fig. 4b and work from the left end of the strips when cutting the curved shapes.)
5. Cut the larger B shapes from the 3 1/2″ wide strips. Place the ruler at the right hand end of the fabric strip (Fig.5a). The bottom edge of the fabric strip should line up with the 3 1/2″ line on the ruler, and the top of the fabric strip with the top edge of the curved shapes on the ruler. Cut along the right hand edge of the ruler (Fig. 5b).
6. Now cut along the concave curved edge of shape B. Take it slowly, turning your wrist and hand so that the small cutting blade matches the curved edge of the ruler as you go. Cut just beyond the end of the curved edge – no more than 1/4″ beyond it (Fig.6a).
Lift the cutter and cut down from the end of the curved edge towards the circular hole in the ruler (Fig.6b). The cut shape B under the ruler is the piece that you need. Do NOT move the ruler.
7. Move the cutter along to the next circular hole in the ruler. Cut up from that circular hole through the fabric strip along the right hand edge of the second large shape B on the ruler (Fig.7a). Following the instructions in step 6, above, cut along the concave curved edge of the second shape (Fig.7b). Finally cut down the left side of the shape B on the ruler to cut a second shape B.
8. Lift the ruler and remove the 2 cut B shapes. Remove the remaining uncut strip of fabric. There is a piece of fabric left behind (Fig.8a). Turn the piece 180°. Place the ruler back onto it, matching the top edge of the fabric with the top edge of the ruler and the bottom of the fabric with the marked 3 1/2″ line on the ruler (Fig.8b). Cut another “B“ shape from this piece, following steps5 – 6 above.
9. You have cut 3 of shape B from the strip. If more of shape B are needed for the design, place the ruler back on the remaining strip, carefully matching up the cut edge on the strip with the edge of the ruler as in Fig.9. Repeat steps 5 – 8 until you have cut the required number of this shape.
10. Cut the smaller quarter-circle, shape A, from the 2 1/2″ wide strip. Place the ruler with the smaller shapes A at the right-hand end of the fabric strip (Fig.10a). The bottom edge of the fabric strip should line up with the 3 1/2″ marked line on the ruler, and the top of the fabric strip with the top edge of the smaller curved shapes A on the ruler. Cut along the right-hand straight edge of the first curved shape A (Fig. 10b).
Cut along the curved edge of the first shape A on the ruler from top to bottom, cutting through the fabric strip and into the circular hole at the bottom (Fig.10c). The scrap of fabric at the top is waste. The cut shape A under the ruler is the piece you need. Do NOT move the ruler.
11. Work your way along the ruler in this way, cutting a total of 3smaller shapes A. Lift the ruler and remove the 3 cut shapes A. If more of these are needed for the design, straighten the end of the remaining 2 1/2″ wide strip, place the ruler on it and repeat step 10until you have cut the required number of this shape.
Joining the two pieces to make the block
1. To help fit the two curved edges of shapes A and B together, clip the curved seam allowance on the larger shape B. Cut at roughly1/4″ intervals, keeping the cuts within the 1/4″ seam allowance no deeper than 3/16″ (Fig.1 ). Only clip piece B, not piece A.
Fold shape B in half along the curved edge and crease it to mark the center. Crease and mark the center of shape A.
2. Place piece A onto piece B, right sides facing, matching the center creases and edges. Pin the centers at right angles to the seam (Fig.2). (I arrange the pins with the points outward and remove them with my left-hand as I machine-stitch the seam.)
3. Swing one corner of shape B around to match the corner of shape A, lining up the straight outer edges of both pieces (Fig.3). Pin in position. The only way to make the two pieces fit each other is by curving them in your hand as you pin, like setting in a sleeve in dressmaking.
4. Swing the other corner of shape B around to match the corner of shape A, lining up the straight outer edges of both pieces. Pin in position (Fig.4). The resulting shape will not lie flat – it takes on a deep curve as in Fig.4.
5. More pins are needed to keep the curved edge of shape A exactly even with the edge of shape B. Match and pin the two pieces at least every 1/2″ (Fig.5).
Machine-stitch an exact 1/4″ seam along the pinned curves, removing the pins as you stitch.
6. You may prefer to pin the curve with shape B on the top so that the seam curves away from you. If so, curve the fabric over your hand as you pin. Stretch the top fabric gently to flatten it as you stitch. (Fig. 6)
Press the completed square from the front with the curved seam towards the larger shape B. Then the clipped edges spread and help reduce the bulk of the seam so that it lies flat. Make all the pieced blocks for the chosen design. Stitch the squares together, one row at a time, with a 1/4″ seam allowance throughout.
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