Scissors play a leading role in every sewing room. Determining which is the right type of scissors for different projects is an art in itself. In 2004, I did extensive research for a hands-on scissor demonstration and workshop and surprised myself how much there was to learn about scissors.
Scissor Anatomy & Terminology
1. Finger Blade – the blade that the index finger or multiple fingers uses
2. Thumb Blade – the blade that the thumb uses
3. Edge – the angle and edge of the blades
4. Heel – the point where the two finger holes touch when the scissors are closed
5. Tip or Point – the pointed or rounded end of the blades
6. Shank – the area between the finger/thumb holes and the sharpened blades
7. Screw / Rivet – the connection of the two blades
8. Air – the distance between the blades when closed (look between the blades to see the “air”)
9. Twist – the shape of the blades to create the cut
Scissor Quality
1. High Carbon Steel – easy to sharpen and practically indestructible
2. Single blade construction from one piece of metal (finger hole to tip)
3. Stainless Steel – will not rust
4. A screw connection allows scissors to be adjusted and separated completely for proper cleaning.
Scissors vs Shears
Scissors are usually size inches or smaller and have two ring handles of equal size. They are intended for the lighter cutting tasks. Shears are usually size inches or larger and have one handle larger than the other to accommodate two or three fingers for better leverage on thicker fabrics. Shears are made to do the heavier cutting jobs.
How Many Scissors Should I Own?
Sewers should own at least two quality scissors. The most popular combination is a short 3-5 inch scissors for precision cutting and thread clipping and a pair of 7-8 inch shears for thicker fabrics. Embroiderers will need a small pair of curved scissors for clipping connecting threads. After these basics sizes the rest is personal taste.
Left Handed Scissors
True left handed scissors incorporate both a reserved blade orientation and the thumb and finger holes are properly honed to the shape of a left hand. For right- handers to experience how hard it is to cut left handed without proper scissors, try using your regular scissors in your left hand. You will discover that the motion to squeeze the blades together to make them cut, is more of a pulling-together action verse a normal scissor grip. Children who are left handed and who are learning to sew need to have true left handed scissors for success.
Use and Care Tips
Always keep scissors in a sheath or pouch when not in use. This will prevent the tips from bending and the blade twist from being damaged should they fall off a table. Touch up the sharpening with a hand-held sharpening stone when scissors feel dull between professional sharpenings. Wipe off blades with a soft fabric scrap to prevent lint from building up and clogging the screw assembly pivot area. Place a drop of light sewing machine oil on blades for protection when not in use. Keep scissors in a safe, cool and dry place. For high-humidity areas, regularly wipe the blades with a light coating of oil to prevent rust or corrosion.
What is the difference between regular dressmaker’s shears and the ones with the serrated edge?
Serrated dressmaker’s shears have a fine serration ground on the conventional cutting edge. The other edge has been ground to a knife edge. The purpose of the serrated cutting edge is to grip fabrics which might otherwise slip away from the cutting edges. Examples of this are silk and the other fabrics typically used in sewing lingerie and swim wear. The serrated dressmaker’s shears can be successfully used to cut any lightweight or medium weight fabric and they can be resharpened with a Gingher knife edge sharpening stone in exactly the same way as any other knife edge scissors and shears.
The cutting paper myth!
It is true that paper has a dulling effect on cutting edges but so do all fabrics, especially synthetic ones such as fleece, tricot and other polyesters. In addition, paper produces a lot of lint, which collects on the blades and quickly makes the scissors or shears feel rough when opening and closing them. This paper lint should be frequently wiped off of the blades in order to restore a smooth feel. You can cut paper with any scissors or shears but not with scissors with serrated edges.
Can all scissors cut through multiple layers of fabric?
Only scissors and shears designated as having a knife edge are capable of cutting through multiple layers of fabric. Other products which are ground with two conventional edges, such as embroidery scissors, should not be used to cut multiple layers of material.
Take time to examine the condition of the scissors you use. Is it time to have them professionally sharpened? Do you need another pair to better suit the type of sewing you are doing? Remember we use scissors and shears every time we sew. Make sure to have the very best!
Heirloom Creations offers professional scissor sharpening services for scissors ($5), pinking shears ($5) and rotary cutter blades ($3). We have received scissors for sharpening as far away as Hawaii!
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