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National Zipper Day

We Carry
by Sara Snuggerud in Archives

According to the Holidays For Every Day website (www.holidaysforeveryday.com) April 29th is National Zipper Day.

Patented in 1913, the zipper has helped simplify every day life from clothing, luggage to sporting equipment eliminating time-intensive hooks and eyes, buttons and ties. So why does this slick closure still have a bad rap in the sewing world? We must stop running the opposite direction when a pattern calls for a zipper! These days there are specialty feet and great directions for inserting the perfect zipper.

The most common frustration is how to sew accurately around the zipper tab. The easiest fix is to purchase a zipper 1″ to 2″ longer than needed. The added length will extend past one end and will be trimmed after it has been sewn.

Selecting the right type of zipper is the next question. Zippers are divided into categories by open or closed and metal or nylon/polyester. Dresses and pants require a closed zipper where as jackets require an open zipper. It is recommended to preshrink a zipper by soaking it in hot water for five minutes and air drying before use. Directions for how to replace a zipper are often printed on the zipper’s package. Be sure to keep the packaging until using the zipper!

When sewing a zipper, always try to sew both sides of the zipper in the same direction. This will eliminate the chance of the fabric shifting. Basting with thread or tape is another way to prevent a zipper from moving while being sewn. On lighter weight fabrics, consider interfacing or stabilizing the seam allowances before inserting a zipper to achieve a pucker free finish.

The most common zipper opening is centered down the back or front of a garment. Also, zippers placed in purses, pillows, and other items usually use a centered application. Centered zippers are ideal for everyday clothes, especially for fabric that’s heavyweight, has thick pile or needs to be matched at the seam. In a centered closure, the zipper is concealed by two flaps of fabric running along either side. When completed, two lines of stitching (one on each side of the zipper) are visible from the right side.

When zippers first became popular, most of them were sewn in what is called a lapped closure. Lapping a zipper hides the teeth better, which is why it is often the application of choice for dressy clothing or when the zipper doesn’t match the fabric exactly. It’s also an excellent choice for delicate fabric or pile fabrics that can catch in the zipper teeth. A lapped zipper is concealed by a single fabric flap; only one stitching line is visible from the right side. Lapped zippers are often used in the left side-seams of pants and skirts.

An invisible zipper is my favorite type of garment zipper. Though it requires a special invisible zipper foot and a “backwards way” of thinking for the zipper insertion, the outcome looks like a million bucks! It is worth test sewing this special zipper into a sample piece of fabric to fully appreciate its application.

Other unique zipper types is the cut-to-length zipper tape. This roll of zipper usually has 5 yards or more of zipper tape along with 10+ zipper pulls already placed on the zipper teeth. This allows for any length of zipper at any time. Just measure the length, slide a zipper pull in place and cut!

Many of you know that I love using a serger to put a zipper in our charity gift bags. When using a serger, the zipper should be at least 4″ longer than the desired length. These quick bags can be used for travel items, adjusted in size for a special pencil case or jewelry tote. To print off a free pattern click here.

So the next time a zipper is called for in a pattern, trust your sewing talents to following the pattern and enjoy the benefits that a zipper provides.

“Nothing has done so much to bring husbands and wives together as the dress that zips up the back.”

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